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March 2003

Take it from Here

Three of the best locations for take-away food

Kam Yi
Rosenheimer Str. 32
Tel. (089) 448 13 66
Open daily 11:30 am to 11:30 pm

Before the full spectrum of Asian cuisine debuted in the West, Chinese food represented the exotic; and the familiar white cardboard boxes it was usually packaged in epitomized the convenience of take-out. Today’s bountiful variety of Eastern fare means that classic dishes like chow mein and fried rice can seem like bland alternatives to elegant Japanese sushi, fiery Thai curries or crisp south Indian dosas. With its broad array of Chinese dishes, Kam Yi exceeds expectations and reintroduces an element of excitement to the familiar cuisine. Occupying a huge, open space that’s divided into two main dining areas, Kam Yi grows crowded at peak hours. The wait staff, usually amicable, sometimes stonily aloof, often has a hard time keeping pace, and main courses can follow so closely on the heels of appetizers that you’re left feeling rushed to finish one course and move on to the next before it cools. But the delicious food makes up for these imperfections. Translucent vegetable soup (€ 3), featuring Chinese morel mushrooms, carrots, bamboo sprouts and cabbage, is a delightfully fresh starter. Steamed dumplings (€ 3.90), however, are a bit on the stodgy side. The dozens of main-course choices include spicy grilled pork with vegetables (€ 11) and chicken with ginger and leek (€ 11). Rice balls (€ 4) coated in sesame and filled with lotus paste are an unusual appetizer that are sweet enough to finish off a meal with. A small supplementary Vietnamese menu adds an extra touch of the exotic, and everything is available as take-out.
Food 7, Service 6, Atmosphere 7

Pappenheimstrasse 3
Tel. (089) 55 07 99 90
Open Mon.–Fri. 9 am–10 pm,
Sat. 9 am–5 pm

Who doesn’t love a good deal? That said, it’s no wonder Aquamarina invariably swells to capacity at mealtime: the grilled foccacia panini stuffed with various combinations of prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, arugula, tuna and tomato are a steal at only € 2.60–3.70. A daily changing menu of homemade pasta is also available and may include such classics as spaghetti Bolognese or porcini-filled triangoli with sage butter and chestnuts (€7.50). The day’s antipasto, a selection of grilled, marinated and roasted vegetables and meats, is on prominent display at the main counter. The scrumptious platter (€ 6.10), accompanied by thick slices of fresh bread, is easily a meal in itself. Since the seating is quite limited at this popular eatery located around the corner from Cinema, the take-out service is a convenient option. As the wooden crates and stylish storage racks that line the walls here reveal, Aquamarina also specializes in Italian wines (with a few Spanish and Greek ones thrown in for variety). Enjoy them by the glass or purchase a bottle to take with you, and you’ve got an instant picnic.
Food 8, Service 8, Atmosphere 8

Wörthstasse 16
Tel. (089) 48 44 99
Open Mon.–Fri. 9 am–7 pm,
Sat. 8:30 am–2 pm;
hot meals served
Mon.–Fri. 11 am–4 pm
L’Angolino, located in Haidhausen, is a charming Italian speciality shop that is also a part-time restaurant. Home cooks will love the selection of fresh pasta on offer, such as the gnocchi, ravioli filled with mushrooms or the eggplant-stuffed mezzalune (starting at € 1.90/100 g), which makes getting dinner on the table a piece of cake. If you go there for lunch, Francesco Cerone, the southern Italian-born chef-owner, will do the cooking for you. He opened L’Angolino seven years ago and remains acutely in tune with the cooking of his homeland. His daily pasta dishes are cooked al dente and coated—not swimming—in sauces such as creamy spinach and cheese, beef ragout or truffel cream (€ 5.50 – 7.90). Pizza (€ 3.50 – € 7.50), deli meats, marinated vegetables, crusty Italian bread and an assortment of excellent Italian wines round off the offerings. With seating for only a dozen or so diners, L’Angolino’s take-out service ensures you won’t miss out on solid homestyle cooking.
Food 8, Service 9, Atmosphere 8

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